India: Land of Eternal Ink
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India: Land of Eternal Ink

Article © 2009 Lars Krutak

Among the Chang Nagas, the ceremonies and tattooing patterns for men were different. Boys who accompanied a war party, but who returned home before actually participating in a battle, had a little hole pierced in the upper part of the earlobe. The men who brought back enemy heads were permitted to have their chest tattooed with what writers have variously described as two "ostrich feathers," a "V-shaped" chest marking, "fertility fountain," or what the Khiamniungan call "tiger chest" (Fig. 39) in reference to the belief that they become "tiger-like" when killing their enemy. After additional victories, tattoos of human figures were added as they were among the Khiamniungan, Wancho, Lower Konyak (Fig. 40), and Burmese Naga groups. Later on the arms, shoulders, calves, and back were tattooed.

Khiamniungan “tiger chest”. Photograph © Lars Krutak 2009-2007. Lower Konyak man with chest tattooing, ca. 1925 Chang woman with facial tattooing, ca. 1925

Fig. 39) Khiamniungan "tiger chest"
Photograph © Lars Krutak 2009-2007

Fig. 40) Lower Konyak man with chest tattooing, ca. 1925

Fig. 41) Chang woman with facial tattooing, ca. 1925

Chang women were tattooed only their faces. The most prevalent pattern is made on the forehead near the hairline (Fig. 41). Women of the tribe interviewed in the 1960s said that they wore such a tattoo because it would frighten any tigers that crossed their path. Indeed, elders at the time could never recall one instance of a woman being attacked by a tiger! Of course, I interviewed a Chang woman about her forehead tattoo. In this particular village, the tattoo pattern is associated with a maiden who sacrificed her life to save the village from a great flood brought about by a breach of taboo. The deity responsible for the incident promised that the water would recede if the women of the village began tattooing this symbol upon their faces.

Other Naga groups affirm that this common symbol allows the ancestors to recognize the marked woman after she has died or that it could be used as currency to purchase food and other provisions in the afterlife. The non-Naga Abor of Arunachal Pradesh also have a similar belief.

Wancho Naga women did not wear any tattoo patterns on their faces. But they did receive extensive tattooing all over their bodies. Besides being a form of personal adornment, tattoo also had social and ritual importance. Different designs of tattooing were placed on different parts of the body according to a woman's social standing in the community. For example, women from a chiefly family may have had very elaborate designs all over the body while others who were lower in rank (e.g., commoners), had much simpler tattoos. At the same a woman's markings signified her progression through several life stages from puberty to marriage to pregnancy.

A girl received tattoos four times in her life. Her first tattoos (chung hu or chungsu) were placed over the umbilicus around the age of six to seven years (Fig. 42). This tattoo resembles a Maltese cross branching out in four directions from the navel. In the case of a chief's daughter, zigzags are added at the ends of the radiating lines. When a girl reached puberty, her calves and legs were tattooed with various configurations of horizontal, perpendicular, and zigzagging lines. Aristocratic women were given a series of diamond or lozenge designs over their tibia or shins (Fig. 43). After this second stage of tattooing had been performed, a male suitor proposed to her parents. He sacrifices a pig, prepares rice-beer (zu) and sends these gifts to her parent's house along with a basket of cooked rice. The third stage of tattooing is done on the thigh above the knee when the girl leaves her parent's home to live with her husband. In some villages, this tattoo is given after she has conceived, and the design consists of fine parallel lines running up from the knee. A chief's daughter may have eight additional small dots arranged in two rows on the top of the lines. The final stage of tattooing is that which is placed on the chest in the husband's house in the seventh month of pregnancy or after the birth of the first child. The design resembles an "M" in three lines shooting upwards between the breasts. I was told that it represents an abstract anthropomorph (Fig. 44). Such designs, if received by aristocratic women, have additional lines forming the body of the figure. Women of this class may also have their arms, shoulders, and scapulae tattooed with checkered designs of diamonds or lozenges (Fig. 45).

Wancho elder with navel tattooing. Photograph © Lars Krutak 2009-2007. Wancho woman with elaborate leg tattooing. Photograph © Lars Krutak 2009-2007. Sternum tattoo of a human anthropomorph. Photograph © Lars Krutak 2009-2007 Tattooing of a Wancho aristocrat, ca. 1875

Fig. 42) Wancho elder with
navel tattooing.

Fig. 43) Wancho woman with elaborate leg tattooing

Fig. 44) Sternum tattoo of a human anthropomorph

Fig. 45) Tattooing of a
Wancho aristocrat, ca. 1875

The technique of tattooing is similar to that described above for the Ao Naga and the instrument resembles a small adze with one row of five to seven cane needles (siit) attached to the head of the tool. However, only aristocratic women or "tattoo Queens" (e.g., chief's wife) could work as the tattoo artist. Traditionally, the day for tattooing was arranged through a divination ritual and a feast was given to mark the occasion. Before the female tattooist performed the operation, she observed a food restriction and only ate rice and bamboo shoots. She also wore the leaves of a wild plant called chunian in the ear which may have "cooled down" any spiritual activity in the immediate vicinity.

Patterns were stenciled on the body part to be tattooed and the pigment was prepared from soot obtained from charred wood mixed with pine-sap resin and water. While the skin is pricked by the female artist, or rather lightly "hammered" with the tattooing implement, the skin is stretched by an assistant. The blood that oozes out is smeared with a bluish juice made from the charred and pulverized remains of a jungle plant to enhance the blue-black coloration and to heal the punctures. Payment consisted of one leg of a sacrificed pig, one basket of cooked rice and four bamboo tubes of zu for the second stage of tattooing. After the third stage, the tattoo artist (hu tu nu) again receives these items and one metal armlet.

Wancho warrior with intricate chest tattooing. Photograph © Lars Krutak 2009-2007

Fig. 46) Wancho warrior with
intricate chest tattooing

Tattooing for Wancho men was a more serious affair. As amongst other Naga groups, the right to be tattooed was earned on the battlefield and if a man or clan brought back human trophies then the victors were tattooed by the Queen. And account of 1872 stated that men who captured an enemy head could receive the prestigious facial markings (thun hu) of a warrior whereas men who took only the hands or feet of their victim would receive markings on the legs. Of course, other authorities have stated that "a tattoo mark on the face was an indication of the fact that the man had taken part in head-hunting and not necessarily, as is the common belief, of his having taken heads." I have also been told that if a man had slain an enemy he may take a chest tattoo and wear a brass ornament around his neck that symbolized the number of his human victims (Fig. 46). Or if he had killed a dangerous animal like a tiger, he may also earn the right to wear a facial or chest tattoo.

Warriors typically received their tattoos just days after a successful kill (e.g., three or five days after). Everyone knew who deserved to be tattooed and the Queen performed her work in her own house. Sometimes it took her a fortnight to complete all of the tattoos of the successful warriors in her midst. One writer who lived in the Wancho district in the 1950s reported "at the first head taken [the Queen] tattooed the chest; at the second she did the throat; at the third, the face; and at the fourth and subsequent heads she did the arms, back, and belly. The order may not always be the same, but it is probably that the amount of tattooing does represent the degree of prowess of a man or at least of a man's family or morung [paan in Wancho]. Sometimes human figures are tattooed on the chest, and such a man is regarded as very formidable." After a man received his tattoos, it has been told that the brave warrior observed a ritual period of taboo (genna) and confined himself in his home and refrained from speaking with anyone for one day.

Land of Eternal Ink

From the warrior tattoos of the Naga, to the magical kolam markings and tattoos of the Hindu pantheon, India's tattoo cultures comprise an incredibly rich tribal mosaic of visual artistry spanning thousands of miles and thousands of years. Here vestiges of indigenous tattooing practices still survive in forms close to their original sources, even though modernity and other influences have set in motion a series of transformations that may perhaps lead to the demise of these ancient traditions forever. As one member of the Dangs tribe of Gujarat put it: "People have improved now, so they don't get tattooed; those who are educated say this is a bad practice." Of course, many of my younger Naga informants continue to tattoo, but these designs are not the traditional designs of their ancestors; they are tattoos taken from the West - pretty girls, skulls, and personal names of girlfriends tattooed onto forearms. The same can be said of tattoo trends in Gujarat and other regions of India where abstract designs once related to the landscape or caste insignias have largely been replaced by Western motifs like radios, padlocks, wristwatches, airplanes, and parasols. Furthermore, the tradition of tattooing by hand in South India and other regions, by women for women with payments in grain or other foodstuffs, has been largely replaced by machined art made by men for men with all transactions paid for in cash.

Whatever the outcome of these developments, this once hidden frontier of body art should continue to warrant our attention because it exposes the various ways indigenous peoples in India were culturally integrated into their human, ancestral, spiritual, and environmental worlds through bodily ritual and social symbolism. Revealing that tattooing was not only a practice that defined local perceptions of existence: but one that also asserted and inscribed affiliation, maturity, personhood, as well as cultural pride and artistic ability itself.

Literature

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Gupte, B.A. (1902). "Notes on Female Tattoo Designs in India." The Indian Antiquary 33: 293-297. July.

Iyer, D.B.L.K.A. (1935). The Mysore Tribes and Castes. Vol. 1. Mysore: The Mysore University.

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Rao, C.H. (1946). "Note on Tattooing in India and Burma." Anthropos 37: 175-179.

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Rubin, A. (1988). "Tattoo Trends in Gujarat." Pp. 141-153 in Marks of Civilization (A. Rubin, ed.). Los Angeles: UCLA Museum of Cultural History.

Russell, R.V. and R.B.H. Lāl (1916). The Tribes and Castes of the Central Provinces of India. Vol. III. London: MacMillan and Co.

Thurston, E. (1898). "Note on Tattooing." Madras Government Museum Bulletin 2(2) 115-119.
____(1906). Ethnographic Notes in Southern India. Madras: Government Press.

Trivedi, H.R. (1952). "The Mers of Saurashtra: A Study of Their Tattoo Marks." Maharaja Sayajirao University Journal 1(2): 121-131.

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___(1991). The Muria and Their Ghotul. Bombay: Oxford University Press.

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