Wen Shen: The Vanishing Art of Chinese Tribal Culture
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Wen Shen: The Vanishing Art of Chinese Tribal Culture

Article © 2009 Lars Krutak

Tattooed Headhunters of Taiwan

 Saiset warrior with tattooed forehead
and chest, ca. 1930.

The Atayal, like the Paiwan, Rukai and Saiset, also marked success on the headhunt with tattoos. However, these markings were placed on the foreheads and torsos of valiant warriors in different set patterns. Those headhunters who acquired more than five heads with their machete-like beheading sword might also have tattooed their chests or the backs of their hands. One Atayal elder recounted in the 1940s that headhunting was believed to induce rapid growth in village children which was a desirable outcome:

"After our young men return from killing, they tattoo their foreheads and chins. Even when they went to kill someone our ancestors took many people, even their children, with them. Then, from the head taken, they distributed one hair to each of the children. After they returned, these people who went out to kill were all tattooed. As a result of this, the children grew with the speed of the wind! According to the Atayal custom, a man who has killed many men tattoos his chest. A man who has killed only a few does not tattoo his chest.

When we return from killing, we return with our voices raised in the war cry along the road. When we get home we all go to the place for the heads and sing. On the following day we assemble and dance, and put the heads in the head stockade. We always place rice flour cakes, which our wives have pounded, into the mouths of the heads. Taking them out again, we let the children of those of us who have returned from head-hunting eat them. We make owao [millet wine] in celebration, and also go hunting. When our owao is mature, we always invite everyone in the whole village. Then everyone comes and drinks our owao."

The Atayal also administered tattoos to the foreheads of unmarried boys and girls. Apart from these tattoos, only those girls who were skillful in weaving could tattoo their cheeks and other parts of the body. Interestingly, it should be noted here that the base structure of these intricate cheek tattoos resemble the diagonal facial tattoo bands worn by Li women of the Qi and Ha tribes. Of course, these Li tattoos are much simpler in form but it is possible that both forms of facial tattooing are ultimately derived from the same original source posing profound questions that are difficult to answer today.

Atayal women with intricate facial tattooing, ca. 1900.

Li women of the Qi and Ha tribes with similar, yet more simplified, facial markings, ca. 1990.

The Dulong Women of Yunnan

In a remote corner of northwestern China, facial tattooing (baktuq-ru) among women of the animistic Dulong (or Drung) people was common until the founding of the People's Republic of China. Young women were tattooed in their early teens with a distinctive design that was unique to their home region.

Tattooed Dulong women of the remote
Dulongjiang River valley, Yunnan.

The purpose of these tattoos is the stuff of legends. First, they are said by some to have deterred Tibetan slave traders and other enemies from kidnapping the fair "maidens" of the mountains. Others speculate that these dark-blue markings prevented Dulong women from being lured away by the impulses of modern living in the cities because of their permanent disfigurations. One local Chinese researcher has reported that the marks signaled the attainment of puberty and that each clan owned a specific pattern and worked as a kind of identification mark.

Whatever the reason, the Chinese census of 2003 noted that sixty-five tattooed Dulong women continued to live in the mountains above the steep banks of the isolated Dulongjiang River near Tibet. Much of the region lies 4,000 meters above sea-level and is usually cut-off from the rest of the world for at least six months a year by heavy snowfall. Today, there are less than forty tattooed Dulong women and perhaps the youngest was tattooed in the early 1960s: the rest are between seventy and one hundred years of age. The Chinese government abolished Dulong tattooing for good in 1967.

Recently, one of the oldest women (98 years-old) to wear her hard-earned markings said she could not remember when, or why, her face was tattooed. All she could report was that she was there with two other girls from her village and, "We all cried in agony."

China tattooing

A simulation of Dulong tattoo stenciling, 2004. Photograph © Stephanie Gros.

The pointillinear tattoos resemble a butterfly with its body and antennae moving up along the bridge of the nose to the forehead, and its wings spread across the cheeks and face. After a stencil was made, the design was created with bamboo needles dipped in a sooty ink made of charcoal mixed with saliva and water. The tattoo operation lasted up to seven or eight hours, and the women were told not to wash their wounds for several days in the fear that the pattern would not remain intact. Payments ranged from a basket of taro or bread, to a portion of alcohol or even a knife.

Some Dulong women have said that they were tattooed with the butterfly pattern because it is beautiful. Upon being interviewed, another elder declared: "The image of the butterfly is associated with passage in Dulong culture. The souls of the dead are thought to change into butterflies."

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Museum photo gallery of these images may be seen here.

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Other tattoo articles by Lars Krutak

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Tattoos of Indochina: Supernatural Mysteries of the Flesh
India: Land of Eternal Ink
Wen Shen: The Vanishing Art of Chinese Tribal Culture
The Kalinga Batok (Tattoo) Festival
The Art of Magical Tattoos
Tattoos of the early hunter-gatherers of the Arctic
Piercing and Penetration in the Arctic
The Last Tattoos of St. Lawrence Island
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At The Tail of the Dragon: The Vanishing Tattoos of China's Li People
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The Mundurucú: Tattooed Warriors of the Amazon Jungle
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